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Friday, October 8, 2010
Heathers Draggin' on the Dragon! - Girl rider!
This Tail of The Dragon in NC. The curves are crazy as hell. It takes heart to ride this tail as they call it and this is a female doing the damn thing. The women are really getting it in on these sportbikes. Too bad it was just clips, can you image if it was actually footage as they were riding in the tail? Well enjoy Heather she's doing it real big.
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Thursday, October 7, 2010
Top Motocross Psychology Tips For Entering The Zone: Take It From The Pro's by Dr. Patrick J. Cohn
For those that love to race we have not forgotten about you at Biker-Space. Here is an article on how to handle and prepare for a motocross race. Enjoy!
On the start line, you were so confident that day, you believed no one could race with you. On the track, racing felt effortless and smooth. You were in the flow on every jump, bump, and turn. Your rhythm was perfect in the whoops. Every section of the track was executed just as you saw in your mind. Your mind was so immersed into racing each section--one at a time--that you were oblivious to other racers. Today you were not checking to see who was behind you.
Your motorcycle responded with ease to every thought—it felt like an extension of you. The feeling of being in complete control of yourself and your emotions was awesome. It was so fun to race the track just as you have envisioned in your mind. Only after the moto did you realize that you raced the moto of your life and found an elusive state of peak performance called “the zone".
Nothing is more exciting for athletes than performing in the zone. The zone is a peak performance state in which the mental, physical, and strategic parts of racing come together at once. When racing in the zone and going fast with ease, motocross is fun, immensely satisfying, and feels second nature. To get into a zone state, you must be focused on the task, very self-confident, race with trust and composure, and be decisive with your race plan. In this article, I will discuss the mindset of racers when in the peak performance zone.
“You can have a good bike and have all the talent in the world, but if you don't believe in yourself and know that you can win, you will have a hard time at the races.” – Ricky Carmichael
Confidence is the first mental tool to entering the zone. You cannot race your best without a high level of self-confidence. You know the confident type—the James Stewarts of the Motocross world who have a total conviction and belief in their ability. Most racer’s confidence comes from success and winning, but how will you get onto the podium if you do not first believe you can win? Too many racers doubt their ability to race up front right at the wrong time. I teach racers to take responsibility for their confidence by fueling their confidence and teaching them how to battle those malicious doubts that pop into a racer’s mind at the wrong time.
“I try to visualize the entire race beforehand. As the actual races get closer at hand, I start to focus more specifically on the start.” – Rick Johnson
The second mental tool to getting into the zone is your ability focus the mind in the present moment, the so-called here and now. Most racers can concentrate, but may not focus on the right areas. Racing the track one section at a time and not getting ahead of yourself is the foundation of a zone focus. You can’t make yourself get in the zone, but you can train your mind to focus on the right areas so you are dialed in when the gate drops. In addition, coping with distractions are part of racing. The racer who learns how to ignore the distractions and focus on the task will beat most racers who get distracted.
The third mental tool to entering the zone is a racer’s ability to get into a “flow” on race day. Ricky Carmichael has a great work ethic and trains hard, but to win he must be able to rely on his training and get into a rhythm on race day. Some racers ruin their rhythm by trying too hard or forcing it on race day. The ability to perform effortlessly and trust your instincts is the foundation for getting into a zone state. My motocross students call this feeling as being “in the flow,” “in a rhythm,” “just reacting,” or “automatic.” You must be able to trust your practice and ability on race day do you can “just do it” and react to the track.
“Don’t try to blast your way around the track. Find a nice pace and stay with it. Relax. When you are nervous, your arms tend to pump up.” – Jeremy McGrath
In pressure situations or in national events, the tendency is to tighten up, try too hard, and not trust you ability. Focusing too much on clutch release or body position for example upsets the natural rhythm and flow of riding because you are consciously forcing it and not letting it happen. This bogs down timing and throws off your natural rhythm. The purpose of practice is to make it feel reflexive when you perform on the track. When you race, let your instincts, built on a ton of practice, take over.
The fourth mental tool is composure. When performing in the zone, racers feel very much in control of themselves and thus their performance. Sports require a balanced emotional level. The key is to be excited to race but not over excited, intense but not too intense, ready to race, but not overanxious to race, and feel challenged but not anxious. Feeling pumped and excited can help you race better, but fear and anxiety ruin your mindset. I help my students find the balance between feeling excited and being over excited.
“Only race because you love it. Race because you can express yourself. Race because it's the most fun thing you can do!” – Rick Johnson
Lastly, you have to have fun with your racing to get into the zone. How could racing not be fun you ask? One way is if you put too much pressure on yourself to win or get on the podium. Another way is if you feel expectations from others such as your parents or manufacturers to win. These can cause fear, trying too hard, doubt, and tension, all mental breakdowns that will prevent you from entering the zone. Approach each moto like a fun game because you love the feeling of hitting that jump just right or hauling around a corner and you will be more likely to find your flow on race day.
Wednesday, October 6, 2010
Why Do Bikers Dress The Way They Do? By Tyler Powers
Most motorcycle riders wear leather – lots of leather. Boots, chaps, vests, gloves, chain wallets, and leather jackets. The reason behind all this leather is not for looks, and it's not to appear threatening. It's all about protection!
There is protection from weather provided by leather. Riding in cool weather gets very cold when you are moving at 55 miles per hour. Even the gentle Florida winter requires protection from winter weather. In fact, I would never know that was Becki getting ready to ride the Toy Run if I didn't recognize the motorcycle! Weather isn't the only issue, however.
True bikers dress to protect themselves in a fall rather than dressing just for the ride. Accidents do happen. You may have to drop a bike to avoid being hit by a car. You may experience a front blow out and lose control. It is possible that even the most experienced rider can drop a bike. I've had to CHOOSE to drop a bike to avoid being run over by a car. The bike and I both survived. I didn't even get road rash since I was wearing leather! I also chose where to drop the bike so it wasn't damaged except for a paint ding.
Bikers learn from experience, both theirs and others. When you see someone who chose to ride in shorts and tee-shirt come in covered with road rash, you know that riding that way is not wise. They dressed for the summer ride and failed to dress for the fall which happened.
That explains the leather jackets and chaps. But why the chain wallets? Motorcycles vibrate somewhat. You climb on and off them. This places stress on the back pocket where a wallet would be carried. Over time, the wallet can drop out unnoticed and not only is money lost, but ID, proof of insurance, credit cards lots of valuable things that take time and trouble to replace. With the chain wallet, this cannot happen. You also do not expose yourself to having a pick-pocket hit you during a crowded motorcycle event!
The leather gloves – often fingerless for summer wear -- make holding handlebars for hours more comfortable. There isn't a cruise control on a motorcycle, although some people rig them up. The throttle is in your hand and you have it turned to the speed you want to go for the entire ride. That wears on the palm and tires the hand. The gloves provide comfort. Mesh and leather are normally used for summer riding, full leather for winter rides. Also, the hands are provided protection from the road in case of a skid, fall, or drop. Road rash on the palms HURTS!
Goggles or eye protection is often the law, but it also makes sense. Think what happens if a bug hits you in the eye at 55 mph! Of course, the goggles or eye protection needs to look cool, but that just because no one wants to wear funny looking glasses. Helmet visors provide the protection in states where helmets are required. A benefit of visors, if you use a full-face visor, bugs don't get in your mouth either! ICK!
Speaking of bugs: leather protects the rider from insect impacts as well. Do you realize how hard a bug is when it hits your body at high speed?? It's painful!! And no one would want that angry insect to sting if it were capable.
Boots are a necessity. If you "almost" drop a bike, often that sturdy boot placed on the ground prevents the potential drop becoming a real accident. Think how your foot would look if you had to steady yourself and your bike wearing thin bottom sneakers? If you ruin a pair of boots because you saved yourself from a fall, it's an investment that paid off! Boots also provide protection from hot exhaust pipes and support the ankles better for mounting and dismounting your ride.
Where helmets are not required, leather skull caps are popular. Sometimes called a "do-rag", these leather bandana-like objects are shaped for the head and tie in the back. This hold hear in place but also provides some protection should you scrape your head during a fall. Of course, if you HIT your head during a fall, only a helmet will provide protection. However, we should let those who ride decide, but most states feel otherwise!
There is a reason for every thing the biker wears. Sure, it looks cool in their opinion, and there is some really beautiful riding gear available. But it's not all about looks. What you wear when you ride can save your life or at least your skin!
Monday, October 4, 2010
MASSACHUSETTS ENACTS RIDER TRAINING FOR JUNIOR MOTORCYCLISTS by Bill Bish
The Massachusetts Motorcycle Association (MMA) announces that Senate Bill 2344, dubbed Ryan’s Bill, an “Act relative to assuring that motorcyclists between the ages of 16 and 18 are provided with adequate education relative to the proper safety and operation of a motorcycle.” has been signed into law by Governor Deval Patrick.
Recognizing the additional burden formal training may require, MMA Legislative Director Rick Gleason states, “A weekend of formal training sets the stage for a lifetime of motorcycling enjoyment and the skills acquired through training can help a rider avoid a crash.”
This new law does not make training mandatory, and only affects those under 18 who wish to earn their motorcycle license. MMA Chairman Dave Condon further clarifies that passage of Ryan’s Bill does not require a junior operator take a motorcycle training course. "A motorcycle permit in this state is good for two years. Therefore, a junior motorcycle operator can still ride on his\her permit beyond their 18th birthday, and take the road test offered by the Registry of Motor Vehicles.” Condon further stated, "The MMA was very careful in not taking anyone's choice away or interfering with a parent’s right to decide what is best for their child." Condon also pointed out that current state regulations require 40+ hours of formal training before a Junior Operator may obtain a license to operate an automobile.
Recognizing the additional burden formal training may require, MMA Legislative Director Rick Gleason states, “A weekend of formal training sets the stage for a lifetime of motorcycling enjoyment and the skills acquired through training can help a rider avoid a crash.”
This new law does not make training mandatory, and only affects those under 18 who wish to earn their motorcycle license. MMA Chairman Dave Condon further clarifies that passage of Ryan’s Bill does not require a junior operator take a motorcycle training course. "A motorcycle permit in this state is good for two years. Therefore, a junior motorcycle operator can still ride on his\her permit beyond their 18th birthday, and take the road test offered by the Registry of Motor Vehicles.” Condon further stated, "The MMA was very careful in not taking anyone's choice away or interfering with a parent’s right to decide what is best for their child." Condon also pointed out that current state regulations require 40+ hours of formal training before a Junior Operator may obtain a license to operate an automobile.
Motorcycle Rider Education Program (MREP) officials analyzed ten years of information from the Massachusetts RMV and found that just over 63% of those involved in fatal motorcycle accidents have never received any formal motorcycle rider training and 22.5% of motorcycle fatalities were from riders under the age of 21.
The MMA supported the legislation in honor of 16 year old Ryan Orcutt of Brockton who died in a motorcycle accident.
Saturday, October 2, 2010
Motorcycle Stunt Girls- Graceful Perfection
The girls are doing it real big in motorcycle stunts. WOW!!! Much respect to these ladies. And they look good. They are gorgeous. Team Rebella proves that stunting isn't just a game for the guys...
...One group of female riders has carved out its own niche within the freestyle genre, and has since made a lot of guys go gaga for more than their stunts...
...So how did Team Rebella, a group of three young ladies, think they were going to make any sort of impact whatsoever and infiltrate this male-dominated, somewhat reclusive stunt clique? Lipstick and eyeliner doesn't mix with wheelies and burnouts after all...
...It turns out that makeup, teddy bears and nail polish are the farthest things from the minds of Jessica Maine, Brandy Valdez and Alicia Speck. It was fate that gave them their collective good looks alongside natural riding ability, but the blend has gained them widespread popularity...
Thursday, September 30, 2010
How To Handle A Fall (Assuming It's Inevitable) By: James R. Davis
Of all the Tips I have posted here, this one is clearly the least credible in the sense that I have no experience in the matter, nor can I imagine a way to practice that makes any sense to me (nor would I want to.)
Still, I will post the thoughts in the hope that the reader will not take them as advice, but purely my opinions on the matter. Further, I suspect that in real life one does not have time to do anything deliberate until after the first impact, and then there may be no decisions possible. On the other hand, since I have personally witnessed a deliberate and life-saving maneuver by a woman who had just suffered a highside accident, I know that at least some people retain enough presence of mind in an accident that the following couple of ideas just might help.
Still, I will post the thoughts in the hope that the reader will not take them as advice, but purely my opinions on the matter. Further, I suspect that in real life one does not have time to do anything deliberate until after the first impact, and then there may be no decisions possible. On the other hand, since I have personally witnessed a deliberate and life-saving maneuver by a woman who had just suffered a highside accident, I know that at least some people retain enough presence of mind in an accident that the following couple of ideas just might help.
- The objective should always be NOT to fall - even if the bike is going down. That is why I teach my friends how to dismount their bikes (at slow speeds) if it is dumping, or to stay with it until after first impact at higher speeds, if possible.
- DO NOT TRY TO BREAK YOUR FALL WITH YOUR HANDS!!! In other words, try to impact with as much of your body at the same time as possible.
- If you are doing a lowside the bike is ahead of you and you want it to stay that way. Since the coefficient of friction between you and the ground/asphalt is higher than of a metal motorcycle, you want to get as much of your body on the ground at the same time as you can to slow you as quickly as possible so the bike will slide away from you. In other words, arms over head, feet first, butt down. Stay LOOSE (relaxed, in as large a configuration as possible.) LET GO OF THE MOTORCYCLE AS SOON AS POSSIBLE!!!
- If you are doing a highside you will be in front of the bike when you hit the ground. You want to move as fast as possible - in the same direction you were going and for as long as you can - in order to try to avoid getting crushed. In other words, you want to 'tuck' and roll as soon as you can after you hit the ground. Stay TIGHT (in as small a configuration as possible.)
I don't think most people will have time to do anything deliberate at all by way of falling. But perhaps I'm wrong and the above thoughts can in some way be of assistance.
---
Following the posting of this Tip I received many e-mail messages which argued that a person simply does not have time to do anything that could affect the outcome of a fall. I responded with the following:
quote:
My comments had very little to do with how you hit the ground following a 'get off' as I don't think there is sufficient time to do anything very deliberate until after the first impact, and then there may be no decisions possible. Rather, I was trying to suggest that as you are coming to rest (assuming you can function at all) then you should try to END UP either loose (as much body contact as possible with the ground) or tight (as little body contact as possible with the ground - tuck and roll posture) depending on if you went down on the low side or the highside.
Despite the fact that I don't think most people would have either the time nor the presence of mind to do much 'thinking' during a 'get off', some do. I have personally seen, for example, a woman in her late fifties do a 50 MPH highside and when she landed, because (I believe - she can't remember) she was so afraid that the bike would land on top of her, began a rapid rolling maneuver that saved her life (the motorcycle stopped 1 foot short of where she did.) I have personally witnessed this same woman (honest) respond to a huge wind gust that knocked her bike over just as we were coming to a stop at a pullout on the top of a mountain and she was thrown over her bike, this time at about 5 MPH.
During this latter 'highside' she actually did a summersault before hitting the ground - a clearly deliberate move on her part (we all watched as she tucked her head down and 'kicked' away from her bike which allowed her to land on her curved back and then she 'unwound' and stopped her roll by spreading her legs. (She had gotten away from the bike that was following her, but wanted to stop rather than keep going.) Good thing, because had she gone another five feet she would have had a SEVENTY FOOT fall off the mountain. (There was no fence or guard rail that would have stopped it.) Incidentally, Elaine saw both of these 'highsides' , too.
Anyway, I mention these events because they left a very strong impression on me that some people DO have the presence of mind to determine how to END a fall, despite how fast things are happening to them. I'm not at all sure I'm one of those people, but at least I have thought about it and know that if I'm in front of my motorcycle I want to keep moving until I can't move any more - and I want as small an exposed profile as possible, just in case that bike catches up with me.
As to the lowside concept of trying to end up on your back, arms over your head, feet first - this was originally told to me by a motorcycle 'stunt man' in LA a couple of decades ago about how he tries to stop after a dismount. (Not that any of us are into that sort of thing, of course. )
Wednesday, September 29, 2010
SAVING TIME CAN COST YOU MONEY by Bill Bish
In the current economic downturn, cash-strapped states across the U.S. are charging huge fines for speeding violations and other traffic infractions. All across America, legislators have one eye on road safety and the other on depleted coffers, and depending on where you live a speeding ticket can cost from under a hundred dollars to a couple thousand or more, reports AOL Autos.
Drivers caught speeding in the states of Georgia, Illinois, North Carolina, Nevada and New Hampshire all are liable to be fined up to $1000, at a judge's discretion, for a first-time speeding offense, according to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration. The severity of the financial penalty also may depend upon the number of miles above the speed limit when clocked and the number of points on a driver's license, or if the offense occurred near a school or road works. A driver's license may also be suspended, their vehicle impounded, or they may face jail time.
Some states including Michigan, Texas and New Jersey, operate under so-called "driver responsibility" laws, which, in some cases, can result in a further fine of up to $1000 leveled a year after the conviction. Virginia, which until 2008 had some of the strictest penalties for speeders, repealed its driver-responsibility laws last year after a public outcry. Georgia, meanwhile, has just voted to add $200 to the fine of what it terms "superspeeders," who travel more than 10 mph over the speed limit. Other states with fines of up to $500 -- which in many cases is then compounded with additional court fees -- include Maryland, Missouri and Oregon.
Tuesday, September 28, 2010
Hydroplaning Issues What is it? What to do about it? Are they making new tires less safe? By: James R. Davis
Hydroplaning is the result of your tires moving FAST across a wet surface - so fast that they do not have sufficient time to channel that moisture away from the center of the tire. The result is that the tire is lifted by the water away from the road and all traction is thus lost.
Of course the word 'fast' is a relative term. Tread design, tread depth, weight of motorcycle, tire pressure, depth of water and even the consistency of that water - (whether it is highly aerated or not, for example) - all play a part in determining at what speed the tire will begin to hydroplane. It is a pretty safe bet to assume that any speed in excess of 60 MPH is fast enough to support hydroplaning regardless of the other variables. This is not to say that at 55 MPH you are safe, however. (A formula that comes close to predicting the speed at which you will hydroplane, assuming at least .2" of water on the ground, is: 10.27 * Sqrt(tire pressure) which shows that if your tires hold 35 psi, hydroplaning can be expected at 60.76 MPH, while tires with 41 psi of air in them should expect hydroplaning at about 65.75 MPH.
Of course the word 'fast' is a relative term. Tread design, tread depth, weight of motorcycle, tire pressure, depth of water and even the consistency of that water - (whether it is highly aerated or not, for example) - all play a part in determining at what speed the tire will begin to hydroplane. It is a pretty safe bet to assume that any speed in excess of 60 MPH is fast enough to support hydroplaning regardless of the other variables. This is not to say that at 55 MPH you are safe, however. (A formula that comes close to predicting the speed at which you will hydroplane, assuming at least .2" of water on the ground, is: 10.27 * Sqrt(tire pressure) which shows that if your tires hold 35 psi, hydroplaning can be expected at 60.76 MPH, while tires with 41 psi of air in them should expect hydroplaning at about 65.75 MPH.
Another formula that is somewhat more accurate, though much harder to calculate, is: 7.95 * Sqrt(tire pressure * contact patch width / contact patch length). This formula shows that the wider the contact patch is relative to its length, the higher the speed required to support hydroplaning. I bring this to your attention because it is contrary to my understanding that a wider tire is more susceptible to hydroplaning than is a narrower tire, yet this particular formula seems to yield a closer approximation of the threshold hydroplaning speed. In other words, I cannot explain why the formula seems to work.
In any event, there are two absolutely essential NO-NO's to remember should you experience the beginning of hydroplaning:
Hope there is an idea in there that you can work with. Frankly, I think if you start to hydroplane the odds are that you are going to go down unless you keep the front wheel pointed absolutely dead ahead and it is of the briefest of durations.
While on this subject I would like to make another observation about our tires. If you look at the stock front tire on all new GoldWings you will see a Dunlop K177.

If you look at the tire tread pattern you will also see that the grooves are cut in such a way as to tend to channel water away from the center of the tire if it is rotating in accord with the arrow stamped on the side of the tire. This seems to be consistent with what the Dunlop factory rep advised in his latest message to me on the subject.

However, if you look at the front tire tread pattern of the new Dunlop Elite II's (K491) they are aligned in exactly the opposite way. That is, they tend to channel water towards the center of the tire. This CANNOT be the most effective way to diminish the odds of hydroplaning! Either the K177 or the K491 is safer on wet streets based on those tread patterns. (I believe that most new street bikes (other than Honda) come with tires treaded like the K491's.)
If anyone knows why I sure would like to hear about it. Thanks.
I, of course, tried to find out the answer for myself. I wrote to the company that manufactures these tires and in my letter I explained my concerns, just as I did above.
Following is the terse response I received from the Dunlop Tire Corporation to those concerns. I think you can draw a few conclusions from this 'hedge" - at least one of which is that hydroplaning and braking compete with each other from a tread design point of view. It might also be concluded that if you start using these newer designs you should lower your speeds in the future when the roads are wet, below what used to work just fine for you (I will!).
(This response was signed by a person named Tom Daley.)
Mind you that I am not of the opinion that Dunlop has made a mistake with this design! In fact, I think braking performance is FAR MORE IMPORTANT than hydroplaning resistance. This is particularly true since we can usually choose how fast we drive on wet streets but often cannot choose when it is necessary to stop quickly. I would have liked a little more candor from them on the issue, however.
For example, (because it is left to me to interpret their response), I do not know if they were actually saying that they had determined that the old design (such as IS being shipped on the front tires of new Wings) is better or not than the K491 design from an hydroplaning point of view.
In any event, there are two absolutely essential NO-NO's to remember should you experience the beginning of hydroplaning:
- Do NOT apply your brakes
- Do NOT try to steer in any direction but straight ahead
Hope there is an idea in there that you can work with. Frankly, I think if you start to hydroplane the odds are that you are going to go down unless you keep the front wheel pointed absolutely dead ahead and it is of the briefest of durations.
While on this subject I would like to make another observation about our tires. If you look at the stock front tire on all new GoldWings you will see a Dunlop K177.

If you look at the tire tread pattern you will also see that the grooves are cut in such a way as to tend to channel water away from the center of the tire if it is rotating in accord with the arrow stamped on the side of the tire. This seems to be consistent with what the Dunlop factory rep advised in his latest message to me on the subject.

However, if you look at the front tire tread pattern of the new Dunlop Elite II's (K491) they are aligned in exactly the opposite way. That is, they tend to channel water towards the center of the tire. This CANNOT be the most effective way to diminish the odds of hydroplaning! Either the K177 or the K491 is safer on wet streets based on those tread patterns. (I believe that most new street bikes (other than Honda) come with tires treaded like the K491's.)
If anyone knows why I sure would like to hear about it. Thanks.
I, of course, tried to find out the answer for myself. I wrote to the company that manufactures these tires and in my letter I explained my concerns, just as I did above.
Following is the terse response I received from the Dunlop Tire Corporation to those concerns. I think you can draw a few conclusions from this 'hedge" - at least one of which is that hydroplaning and braking compete with each other from a tread design point of view. It might also be concluded that if you start using these newer designs you should lower your speeds in the future when the roads are wet, below what used to work just fine for you (I will!).
quote:
Our development and testing during the design of the Elite II front tire determined optimum overall performance was achieved with this pattern which includes wet traction and braking.
Dunlop Tire Corporation
(This response was signed by a person named Tom Daley.)
Mind you that I am not of the opinion that Dunlop has made a mistake with this design! In fact, I think braking performance is FAR MORE IMPORTANT than hydroplaning resistance. This is particularly true since we can usually choose how fast we drive on wet streets but often cannot choose when it is necessary to stop quickly. I would have liked a little more candor from them on the issue, however.
For example, (because it is left to me to interpret their response), I do not know if they were actually saying that they had determined that the old design (such as IS being shipped on the front tires of new Wings) is better or not than the K491 design from an hydroplaning point of view.
Monday, September 27, 2010
Glad-Handling those Bad Landings Tips on the Perfect Motorcycle Gloves by Gary IIminen
For many of us, gloves are gloves. If they fit fairly comfortably and prevent blisters or keep our hands warm in cold weather, we’re pretty much good with whatever we happen to have at hand—pun intended.
But, where power sports are concerned, selecting the right gloves can make a big difference in our enjoyment, comfort and safety.
Sizing seems pretty basic, but it makes the difference between day-long comfort and “can’t wait to take ‘em off” discomfort. Checking out the size of your favorite current gloves is a pretty good guide and manufacturers have handy sizing charts, as well for buying online.
One trick I’ve learned for riding in a climate that can be finger-numbing cold in the morning and toasty in the afternoon is to double glove. Wear a light, snug-fitting riding motorcycle glove with thin leather palm and mesh or stretch fabric back inside a heavier leather and/or insulated glove. As the temps rise, take off the outer glove leaving the lighter, cooler glove to provide protection without being too warm. Some snowmobile gloves feature a removable glove liner, but that may not be designed to act as a lightweight glove in itself.
I’ve found that tactic is particularly good for off-road ATV and motorcycle riding and for snowmobile riding, improving protection when trailside branches whack your hands. The thin gloves are also very good for handling tools in sub-zero cold when exposing bare skin can cause frost-bite in a matter of minutes and handling steel tools can literally cause them to freeze to the skin. It can be very difficult to use tools with the bulkier insulated gloves or mitts on. Getting the outer glove in a size or two larger than usual makes this work pretty well.
Depending on your sport and season, you may want motorcycle gloves that keep your hands warm, dry and protected, or cool, dry and protected.
A variety of approaches exist to meet both goals. Perhaps the most dizzying aspect of glove design these days is the variety of materials used in glove construction. Even basic leather gloves have variations: goat skin, lamb skin, buck skin, pigskin, full-grain cowhide, suede and combinations of more than one type. Solid, perforated, fingerless, non-lined, lined, insulated, non-insulated, gel-pad palms, you name it.
Leather has a natural beauty to it, tends to be supple and provides reasonably good weather and abrasion protection. Add some treatment to the surface and you have a waterproof, tough, comfortable basic glove that easily mashes down to fit into your pockets. These types of gloves tend to be reasonably priced, too, generally ranging from as little as about $20 for your basic styles to the $60-$70 range depending on the options.
But the real revolution in glove design is in the use of synthetic materials. Stretch mesh for the back and sides of the gloves allow near-total ventilation, which may be augmented by finger vents, while providing abrasion protection and second-skin fit. High-tack silicone rubber and similar materials added to palm and fingers prevents slippage on the hand-grips and levers, supple finger materials allow maximum “touch” for fine control, pre-curved fingers and palms virtually eliminate “break-in” for the grip. Add Kevlar® fiber in back, wrist and gauntlet with hard knuckle and finger armor and you’ve got a competition-grade protection package.
Speaking of competition, if you intend to use the gloves for racing, check the rules for the sanctioning body; some types of racing won’t allow some types of gloves. For example, in land speed racing no synthetic materials are allowed—leather only, a minimum three inch gauntlet is required and wrist closures are mandatory. European (CE) standards exist for professional motorcycle gloves: EN 13594:2002. No equivalent U.S. standards exist. Fully appointed racing gloves can range from $50 to about $200, depending on the required equipment.
Adjustable wrist closures with Velcro® or snaps assure the gloves will stay on when you need their protection most. They are a good feature to have for leisure riding gloves and are essential for competition. Elastic bands are ok for some applications, but to be effective in some situations, they’d generally have to be so snug, they may be uncomfortable.
Other features like battery-operated heaters, finger-mounted face shield wipers, reflective piping or panels, gel padding in the fingers or palms, or key pockets are all items to consider, depending on your riding plans.
Friday, September 24, 2010
BIKER BABES -- HAPPY FRIDAY -- EYE CANDY
Sorry ladies we did try to find video's somewhere anywhere that had Biker Hunks and there are none out there. So please don't be offended.
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