Motorcycle Recalls

Everyday we surf the web to locate information that we can share with our readers of Biker-Space.com  whether it is sharing videos, information on safety and riding, or just anything on motorcycles and we came across this article on  motorcyclistonline.com and this is one issues that we can honestly say we never thought about motorcycle recalls.  That even though I purchased my bike new that there maybe something wrong with it.  We automatically assume everything is good.  Well know more.  We at Biker-Space.com have been educated and we hope to pass this information along and educate others.

 

While there’s plenty of press on car, truck, or SUV recalls, little is mentioned about recalls on motorcycles.
 

The fact is a bit surprising. In 2005, 87,000 motorcyclists were injured while over 4,500 were killed, a 14 percent and 13 percent increase, respectively, from 2004. While many were related to (lack of) driving skills, weather, other vehicles, and simply bad luck, some were related to defects found in the motorcycle itself.

The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) provides service bulletins and posts recall information on its website. Recalls can be found in the Office of Defects Investigation at http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/recalls/recallsearch.cfm. To discover if your motorcycle has a recall against it, at the site, select “Vehicle”, its year, make, and model. You will then see if any component of the motorcycle has a recall attached to it.

Note that even if the NHTSA site does not list a recall, motorcycle manufacturers sometimes issue their own. You may want to check their websites periodically or call their toll-free number.

Everyone assumes that when they buy a new motorcycle that everything is in working order. But other factors, including design issues or simple material stresses, can make the perfect bike less than optimal. Recalls are useful because it gives the motorcycle companies the chance to quickly resolve the issues so that customers are safe and satisfied with their rides for years—and miles—to come. 

 

For a list of the most recent motorcycle recalls please go to: 

http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/motorcycle_recalls/index.html

http://www.allmotorcyclerecalls.com/

 

 

First Motorcycle Race Video and Electronic Motorcycle Racing Video

The first video is very funny and entertaining as I watched these motorcyclist get it in on the track.  The second video is a preview of the new electronic motorcycle.  It's cute will it replace the gas powered motorcycle's in the future?  I don't think so but it will definitely sell.  The main drawback for me is you won't be heard.  It 's a quite ride and we as motorcyclist know loud pipes saves lives.  My Pipe Is My Voice.  In any event we hope that you find both video's enjoyable.

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Peripheral Vision Technique In Motorcycle Riding--By Andrew Trevitt

One of the most basic techniques of motorcycle riding is to keep your head up and look where you are going. From a safety standpoint, this helps you avoid target fixation; in terms of performance, looking far ahead effectively slows things down, giving you more time to process what you see and take action. The question becomes, then, how do you see something near-like a reference point on the pavement-when you are supposed to be looking far ahead? The answer is that you must use your peripheral vision.

Peripheral vision is the ability to see objects and motion outside of the direct line of sight. Many sports rely on good peripheral vision; a baseball or soccer player must be able to look directly at the ball while seeing as many of the other players around him as he can, for example. Good jugglers don't look at any of the objects being juggled, but rather stare at a spot in space, relying solely on peripheral vision to see all the chainsaws (yikes!) at once.

Typically, you get the most information about something you are directly looking at. The further away something is from this direct line of sight, the less you are able to discern about it. When you take your driving test at the DMV, your peripheral vision is tested by gradually moving a light around your direct line of sight. While we're concerned with something simple like seeing a light off to the side, we're also interested in gleaning more information about it. If a car pulls up beside you on the freeway, you want to know exactly how far to the side it is, how fast it's going, and if the person behind the wheel is paying attention. And ideally you'd be able to do this without actually looking at the car. On the racetrack, it's nice to know exactly how close to your ideal line you are without having to stare directly at the front wheel.

You can improve your peripheral vision through exercise, but first it's important that you aren't inadvertently limiting your range. Simple things like your hair or the edge of a balaclava can restrict your vision. When shopping for a helmet, consider the width of the eyeport and how it can affect things. Wear contacts rather than glasses and a dark shield rather than sunglasses, as the frames can block your line of sight considerably. Optometrist Diana Risco points out that "glasses, especially those that have moderate amounts of astigmatism or a progressive lens (a multifocal lens that changes gradually from distance to near but only through the central corridor of the glasses), can be especially difficult with riding since you need to look in the exact area of the glasses for clarity. Contacts move with your eye so that the optical center is always aligned. Contact lenses are ideal for sports."

Your optometrist can perform tests to check your peripheral vision as well as recommend some exercises. We found several sources on the Internet with variations on the following exercise that can help: In a relaxed setting, focus your gaze on a spot directly in front of you-for example, a picture on a wall. Without moving your eyes, concentrate on something just to the side of the spot, such as a second picture beside the first. Without looking directly at the second object, try to discern as much information about it as you can. Gradually work farther away from where you are actually looking, concentrating on each individual object until you are considering things right at the edge of your vision. Work both to the left and right, and don't forget above and below. With practice, you'll get better at discovering more detail about objects farther to the side. For example, you can add movement to the exercise as well by walking down the sidewalk looking straight ahead (where you want to go) but concentrating on what is to each side of you. You'll then want to practice while riding; eventually it will become second nature to quickly and easily see something to the side without actually looking at it.

The implications of improved peripheral vision are fairly obvious in a street setting: you'll be better able to spot potential danger-such as a car pulling out of a driveway-and then react accordingly, all without losing focus of what's directly in front of you. And on the track it will be much easier to pick up and use reference points while keeping your head up and actually looking as far ahead into the corner as possible. There are numerous and more subtle advantages on both venues. For example, keeping tabs on a bike or car directly in front of you using your peripheral vision lets you look at and focus on the upcoming corner or intersection. With continued practice, you'll find more and more uses for peripheral vision, improving your riding on both street and track.

Guys Gone Wild: Sturgis Motorcycle Rally by Debora Dragseth

 We were email this article and we felt that it needed to be shared with the readers of Biker-Space.com.  If you are in Sturgis, South Dakota then you don't want to miss this week long event.

   
IT'S OFF THE DAMN CHAIN!!!!!

Today marks the opening of the outrageous phenomenon known as the Sturgis Motorcycle Rally, a week-long, $987 million party for about 500,000 people. Every year in early August my sleepy hometown, Sturgis, population 6,500, hosts a half million biking enthusiasts who swarm here for a combination carnival, racing event, party, music festival, and shopping mall. 

Tucked into the scenic Black Hills of western South Dakota, for one memorable week each year Sturgis becomes the epicenter of the oldest, biggest, loudest, most authentic and out-of-control motorcycle rally in the world. We become the largest city in the state by a factor of three. That equates to each household in town hosting 183 “guests.” Nearly 500 festival-goers will land in jail; hundreds will be issued tickets for violations such as indecent exposure, open container, or driving on the sidewalk; 350 or so will require hospital emergency room visits; two or three will die of heart attacks; and a half-dozen or more will be killed in traffic accidents. Keeping its guests safe costs the city of Sturgis over $1 million in insurance, increased law enforcement, attorney costs, fire and ambulance services, and the like.  

To Read More About This Wonderful Event Please Click Here

MYRTLE BEACH SUED AGAIN OVER NOISE LAW-- compiled and edited by Bill Bish - JULY 2010 National Coalition of Motorcyclists (NCOM)

As Myrtle Beach prepares to adjust some of the 14 ordinances passed in 2008 to quell the May motorcycle rallies, including their city-wide helmet law and four other ordinances being invalidated by the state’s high court, it faces yet another legal challenge that could require even more changes. Some residents and other motorcycle enthusiasts are suing the city again, this time hoping the Horry County Circuit Court will overturn the city's noise ordinance. Under the final version of the noise ordinance amendment, which gained final approval in March 2009, no vehicles except emergency vehicles can be louder than 89 decibels when measured from 20 inches away from the exhaust pipe, at a 45-degree angle, while the vehicle is idling. 

Bikers also must have an EPA issued sticker that state their bike meets federal noise reduction laws according to the municipal ordinance, but not South Carolina state law. On June 15th, Virginia-based Aid to Injured Motorcyclists (A.I.M.) attorney Tom McGrath filed suit in Horry County Circuit Court on behalf of local motel owner William O’Day, Horry County ABATE, and others who feel the city overstepped their authority in enacting muffler regulations that conflict with existing state law. McGrath's challenge to the city's helmet ordinance prevailed in the S.C. Supreme Court, with all five justices unanimously agreeing that the state has already covered the issue of who has to wear motorcycle helmets and that the city could not make its own rules because there must be a uniform traffic code. 

The noise ordinance wasn't included in the case the high court recently ruled on, he said, because the focus was on the helmet law. "They were issuing tickets left and right [under the helmet law]," he said. "No one we know had gotten a ticket under the noise ordinance. It's still sitting there, and the city has bought decibel meters, so we assume they are planning to use them. We felt we shouldn't let the ordinance stay on the books." McGrath said he felt it best to give the Circuit Court the first chance to make the decision in this case. "Let's see if the judge will follow the Supreme Court's opinion," he told the Sun News. Meanwhile, the city of Myrtle Beach has mailed out refunds to those who paid fines when they received tickets for not wearing motorcycle helmets. The city repaid nearly $14,000 in fines for 141 tickets it issued when the improper helmet law was in effect.

Accident avoidance...To brake or to swerve?

We all have been in some tight situations when it comes to avoiding a accident and we automatically brake or swerve without thinking.  Some of us have made the wrong decision on whether to brake or swerve, hopefully you are never in that position again but unfortunately as a rider we are always in that position  after reading this article hopefully it will help you to make a better informed decision on to brake or swerve to avoid an accident.

The purpose of this article is solely for information purposes. It is not the intent of this article to encourage or recommend any type of maneuver.  When a rider is confronted with a sudden obstacle ( be a car pulling in your line, a deer crossing the road etc. etc.) you have to evaluate the situation and decide how to react. Your primary options are to attempt to brake to a stop or swerve around the obstacle.

Which decision is more likely to result in avoiding the accident is based on physics of movement (kinematics).  Based on experimental data and published accident investigations we can plot the required distance to brake and the distance to swerve.

As braking distance increases by the square of the speed, we draw the following conclusions:

If traveling from 0 to 50 MPH (give or take 5 miles depending on road conditions and rider skills) braking is the best option.  Traveling in excess of 50 MPH the braking distance increases exponentially and swerving becomes the best option.

Since both braking and swerving are maneuvers based on the law of physics, we can conclude (in general) at “lower” speeds, braking is the better accident-avoidance maneuver, while at “higher” speeds, swerving is the better one.

Riding Skills Series: Throttle Control How And When To Get On The Gas

Here is another great article by Andrew Trevitt who writes for Sport Rider.  Throttle control is one of if not the most important thing to learn on a motorcycle.  How much you give the on the Throttle will determine how fast or how slow you go.  How much you give on the Throttle will determine if you end up in the back of a car, etc or end up with a wheelie.

I know when I first went from a Katana 600 to the Suzuki 1000 I discovered real quick about Throttle control and the different in each motorcycle.  The Throttle holds the power of it all and you must learn how to control it so I hope that you will get some good tips by reading Andrew Trevitt's article.  Enjoy

Most riders look at the throttle simply as the "go-fast" control: open it to go faster, close it to slow down. But in fact the throttle is much more than that. Because the engine affects the motorcycle's dynamics so much-especially in the middle of a corner-the throttle can be used as a tool to help your bike's chassis work better. When the motorcycle is under power, there are several factors that work in your favor. The chassis is more stable as the engine's spinning internals add more gyroscopic effect to the mix. There is less load on the front end, allowing the suspension and tire to work better as well as reducing the risk of a front-end crash. And opening the throttle brings the rear-end squat characteristics into play as well, improving the suspension action and tire grip at the rear end as well. If you've ever found a false neutral in a turn or experimented with coasting down a twisty hillside, you'll know how much the engine can influence the chassis. With no power applied, both the steering and suspension work differently and can cause some tense moments midcorner. (And no, we aren't recommending that you coast down a twisty road to try this)

It's important to know that the act of opening the throttle doesn't necessarily mean you will speed up. The initial application of power is usually not enough to overcome the friction and aerodynamics involved, and the motorcycle will continue to lose speed. In faster corners, data shows that the throttle needs to be as much as 20 percent open before the bike will begin to pick up speed. Expert-level riders know this and have the throttle open well before the apex of a turn, while the motorcycle is still slowing down. This is one aspect you can experiment with: On a straight stretch of deserted road, practice closing the throttle and then smoothly opening it just enough so that you are still slowing down but you can feel the slack taken out of the drivetrain.

When you are braking, you should be gripping the tank with your knees to take the weight off your arms; keep your elbows bent, and this will give you better control of the brake-to-throttle transition. Release the brake gradually as you lean into the turn and the cornering forces take over. Once you've completely released the brake lever but before you reach full lean is the time to open the throttle. You want to keep the time you are coasting with no brake or throttle applied to a minimum, and how you open the throttle initially is just as important as when. In Reg Pridmore's book "Smooth Riding the Pridmore Way" and at his CLASS riding schools, Pridmore advises leaving the index and second fingers on the brake lever and using just the third and fourth fingers to apply the throttle. This is an advanced technique, but can significantly reduce the downtime between braking and throttle application.

In a long sweeping corner, hold the throttle open just enough so that you maintain a constant speed, and avoid the temptation to grab a handful of gas if you think you are going too slow. It's better to smoothly and gradually apply the throttle for two reasons: One, you won't have to abruptly close the throttle when you end up gaining too much speed, wasting all the hard work up to that point. And two, this is the area where the chance of a highside crash is greatest. Be smooth with corrections, and avoid closing the throttle completely if possible.

The smoother you can apply the throttle at this point, the better. Ideally, you want just enough power applied to take up the slack in the drivetrain and unload some of the weight from the front wheel, while still reducing speed as you near the apex of the turn. Another benefit of having the power on at this point is that you unsettle the chassis less at the apex if your bike has notchy throttle response-the abruptness will have occurred while the bike was a bit more upright and not as affected. Smoothly roll the throttle on so that you reach your minimum speed right at the apex of the turn and can add speed from there. Note that this is easier practiced on longer, faster turns, where you have more time available and quite a bit of power is necessary to overcome the aerodynamics before acceleration can actually begin.

With the throttle already open at the apex, the slack taken out of the drivetrain and the suspension settled and ready for acceleration, you will get a much better drive out of the corner than you would otherwise. This pays dividends all the way down the next straight with more speed. With practice, you'll find that getting on the gas smoothly and early pays off in many aspects, allowing you to ride quicker on the racetrack and more safely on the street.

DUCATI ANNOUNCES THE 848 EVO SUPERBIKE FOR 2011 IT'S HOT

  

Here it is and we are only half way through 2010 and the new models are rolling off the assembly line.  The Ducati looks really hot and the write-up on it makes you want to go and get yourself a Ducati.   And the price for the new Ducati is not that bad either.  Suzuki has also announced it's new baby as well.  Check out our next article on the new Suzuki for 2011.  She is hot as well.  Makes me want to trade in my 2008 Suzuki 1000 for the 2011 but I'm not going to do that to my baby she has been good to me:).

New for 2011, the 848^EVO is the year’s most significant middleweight sport bike Cupertino, Calif.

(20 July 2010) –  Ducati proudly announces today the most powerful middleweight sport bike on the market; the 2011 Ducati 848^EVO Superbike. 

The new Ducati 848^EVO is the pinnacle of sport bike engineering, designed to be the leader in the middleweight class. Weighing only 369 pounds and propelled by 140 horsepower and 72 lb/ft of torque, it is the most powerful motorcycle in its category.

The 848^EVO is based upon Ducati’s best ever selling middleweight Superbike- the 848. Along with the “EVO” designation comes a significant amount of upgrades based on AMA Pro Racing feedback and consumer demand.

At the heart of the 848^EVO is the Testastretta Evoluzione engine, significantly redesigned for a higher power output. All new cylinder heads, pistons, throttle bodies and camshafts combine for a forceful output of 140hp @ 10,500rpm and 72.3 lb/ft of torque @9,750rpm. All of this significant engine performance is wrapped in new black cylinder cases.

In addition to the more powerful engine, the 848^EVO’s chassis and braking systems have been upgraded. A cross-mounted steering damper has been added for greater control of the steering system, and the welcome addition of Pirelli Diablo Supercorsa SP tires will ensure maximum grip while delivering every last horsepower to the asphalt.

The 848^EVO receives a massive upgrade to the braking system in the form of Brembo Monobloc calipers. These single-piece calipers are machined from solid alloy and achieve a higher rigidity and resistance to distortion during extreme braking. The resulting increase in hydraulic efficiency not only delivers incredible braking power, but also provides an enhanced and precise 'feel' at the brake lever.

All this combines to form the most potent, powerful and lightweight middle class sport bike available; both for the road or race track usage. For 2011, a special “Dark” version will be available; which unlike “Dark” editions of Ducait’s past will be a truly black bike from front to rear, giving the motorcycle an aggressive look and attitude.

The Ducati 848^EVO Superbike will be available in North American Ducati Dealerships at the end of August, 2010. Impressively, MSRP will remain unchanged from the 2010 848 it replaces: $12,995 for the “Dark” edition, and $13,995 for Ducati Red.

SUZUKI ANNOUNCES SOME 2011 MODELS Sportbikes include the V-Strom 650 ABS and Hayabusa

Read on people the 2011 Suzuki family is looking and sounding good as well.  They have the V-Strom, Hayabusa, Boulevard, ATV models already to ship.

Brea, CA, July 19, 2010 - Suzuki is pleased to announce its first big wave of several new models for the 2011 model year. In addition to the launch of these new motorcycles and ATVs, American Suzuki is also celebrating its 50th anniversary of international racing this summer. "We are excited to launch a significant number of new units for the 2011 model year, while at the same time we celebrate a half-century of racing," said Steve Bortolamedi, Senior Communications Manager at American Suzuki. "Our products are truly the result of time spent on racetracks all over the world," Bortolamedi adds.

Suzuki will soon ship the 2011 V-Strom 650 ABS, 2011 DR650SE, 2011 DR-Z400S, 2011 Hayabusa, 2011 Boulevard S40, 2011 RM-Z250, 2011 RM-Z450, 2011 TU250 and the 2011 Boulevard M109R and Boulevard M109R Limited. In addition Suzuki is also releasing a 2010 RM85 for those up-and-coming motocross riders out there.

 

Suzuki is also announcing more ATV models for the 2011 model year, including the 2011 KingQuad 400ASi, the KingQuad 400FSi and the new 2011 KingQuad 500AXi. These models come hot on the heels of the previously announced 2011 KingQuad 750AXi and 750AXi Power Steering and 2011 KingQuad 500AXi Power Steering.

A wide variety and range of product is key to a successful business model and nobody does that better than Suzuki. The company will offer several cruiser motorcycles for 2011 including the stylish Boulevard M109R, the entry-level Boulevard S40 as well as the retro-styled standard TU250. The S40 will be available in two new color schemes, orange and black, or white and silver. Suzuki revolutionized the dual sport category and will offer the DR650SE and the DR-Z400S for 2011. Returning for 2011 is the middleweight V-Strom 650 ABS which features antilock brakes as well as a large rear luggage rack with rubber-padded platform to help keep bags and luggage in place. The V-Strom is available in white and black. The king of the Sportbike segment, the Suzuki Hayabusa, also returns for 2011 in Pearl Mirage White or Pearl Nebular Black. And two new updated race-winning motocross performance machines also make an appearance for 2011; the potent RM-Z250, and the RM-Z450, which is based on the current FIM/AMA Supercross championship-winning ride.

 

Suzuki also announces several new ATV models for 2011. The KingQuad 400 models have been revised and both the 400ASi and 400FSi boast a new EFI system and a digital speedometer. The KingQuad 400ASi is offered in black, white, yellow and is also available in Realtree Hardwoods HD enhanced camouflage. The 2011 KingQuad 400FSi is also available in the same variety of color schemes as the KingQuad 400ASi. Suzuki will offer a completely new offering for 2011; a non-power-steering KingQuad 500AXi, which is available in yellow, black, white and Realtree Hardwoods HD enhanced camouflage.

Riding Skills Series: Motorcycle Crashing - It Can Be A Skill

Yes, it can be a skill this is from the April, 2010 issue of Sport Rider 

by Andrew Trevitt, Photography by Gold and Goose

I know you are probably saying this dude is crazy.  Motorcycle crashing being a skill who the heck wants to crash or even think about crashing but we must think about it because it's apart of the ride sometimes, so I rather be prepared than not prepared.  As motorcyclists we need to be pro-active and not re-active. Andrew says it can be a skill, I wish I had read this article before I had my accident.   

One of the sad realities of our sport is that crashes occur more often than we'd like, and those crashes often end with an injury. Rather than avoid thinking about the possibility and what you would do in the event of a tipover, you can help minimize the resultant injuries with some forethought and action during the crash itself. Fortunately or unfortunately (depending on your viewpoint), the Sport Rider staff has plenty of experience in this area, and has learned the skills associated with crashing a motorcycle.

First, however, it can't be stressed enough that your goal-especially on the street-is to stay upright and on two wheels. There is no "badge of honor" or prize money for crashing, and no judges with scorecards. There are far too many immovable objects to hit and an accordingly higher risk of major injury. Things are different on the track, however. Learning skills and improving as a rider means toeing the line occasionally, and crashing is more likely. You've heard it before, but we can't say it enough: If you're going to be pushing your limits, take it to the track.

Before you even turn a wheel, you should be prepared for an accident. Good gear is a must, as is a motorcycle in proper working order. You definitely don't want to crash because your tire pressures are low, or for any other similarly avoidable reason. And you have to wear your gear (rather than leave it at home) for it to work. Being in good physical shape can help lessen the severity of your injuries in a crash; stretching regularly, and before you ride, can help as well.

Now for the crash itself. Our first instinct in an accident is to tense up and perhaps close our eyes-the completely wrong response. There is plenty to do in a crash, and you want your eyes open to see what's going on. Try to stay alert, and don't simply give up and wait for the sky-ground-sky-ground to stop. That said, one big mistake that many riders make is holding on to the motorcycle well past the point of no return. Racers sometimes get credit for keeping a death grip on the clip-ons, allowing them to get back up and in the race all the more quickly. The reality is that by holding on and staying close to the bike, you are increasing your chances of getting hit or caught up in the flying machinery. Let go once you realize a crash is inevitable, and if possible even push the bike away from you.

With the crash now running its course and the ground rushing up at you, it's important to stay as relaxed as possible and not tense your limbs. In any type of fall, resist the natural urge to try and cushion a fall with your hands; trying to break your fall with an outstretched arm will almost certainly result in a broken wrist. Your gear is padded in strategic places for just this occasion, and it's best to let the padded (and stronger) areas of your body such as the outer portion of your arms, shoulders, and back take the brunt of the impact rather than your hands and wrists-the least-protected (and most fragile) portion of your body. If you can make it past the initial landing without serious injury, chances are good you'll walk away when it's over.

Once you've initially hit the ground, the object is to do whatever possible to avoid starting to tumble. While it's generally good to keep the outer portion of your limbs from flailing about, you need to try and spread yourself out in order to avert tumbling; the more you are tucked into a ball, the more likely you are to tumble-which will almost assuredly result in broken bones and prolonging of the actual fall itself. If possible, orient yourself so you are sliding on your back, hopefully feet first. Your back protector (you are wearing a back protector, aren't you?) makes a nice wide, flat surface to spread the load over, as well as protecting you from localized hot spots and road rash, and the more surface area you can drag on the pavement, the more you'll scrub off speed and the quicker you'll come to a stop. The important part to remember through all this is to remain as relaxed as possible, while still moving parts of your body to avoid additional injury. For instance, curbing at the edge of the racetrack is easy to catch something on, and you want to "surf" over this area as smoothly as you can; by slightly lifting whichever limb is at the forefront of your slide, you can avoid catching something and starting a tumble. Sound impossible? You'd be surprised at what you can accomplish sliding along the asphalt, and how much that effort can save you from pain later on.

Another big mistake made by first-time fallers is to try and get up while they are still moving. This is another recipe for tumbling, and it's worth being certain that you are stopped before attempting to move. A good policy is to count to ten after you think you have stopped, and be sure the crash is over. If you're on the road or racing surface you'll want to extricate yourself if possible; otherwise, take inventory of your body and if anything is unusually painful, wait for help to arrive.  

Even if you avoid serious injury in a crash, there is always the stiffness and soreness to deal with during the days after. Alternate ice and heat on especially hurtful bits, and stretch regularly to avoid having your muscles tighten up. Of course, go to the hospital or see your doctor if something seems amiss. Most importantly, learn from your experience-hopefully you won't have to put that knowledge to use again, but it doesn't hurt to be prepared.

Some iron-man riders can seem to wrestle a crashing bike into submission, but for most of us the best option is to let go and get away from the motorcycle as quickly as possible to avoid getting hit by it.

The initial ground impact during a crash can cause the most injury. Keep your arms and legs as tucked in as possible to protect them, and relax your body as much as possible to prepare for landing.

Once you are on the ground and sliding, try to orient yourself on your back, traveling feet-first. This will let you see where you are going as well as spread the weight of your body over as much an area as possible.

Once the crash is over, evaluate what happened. Not only do you want to consider the cause of the fall, but also what you could have done differently during the crash.